Used car buyer’s checklist
Check the paperwork first. Then the car.
41 checks in 7 sections for a private-party or dealer purchase — from the title and VIN to the test drive — including the signs that should make you pause. Emailed to you, and shown here the moment you ask.
It is general buying guidance, not legal advice. Confirm title, lien, and transfer requirements with your state’s DMV.
What is on the checklist
Ordered the way a deal should go: the cheap checks that can end a bad deal early come first.
Before you go see it
6 checks
Paperwork
6 checks
Walk-around
6 checks
Interior
6 checks
Under the hood (engine off and cool)
5 checks
Test drive
6 checks
Walk-away signs
6 checks
Sample section
Paperwork
A car with a title problem is not worth inspecting. Check this first.
- In a private sale, the name on the title matches the seller’s photo ID. At a dealer, ask who holds the title and when you will receive it.
- The VIN on the title matches the VIN on the dash and the door-jamb label.
- The title is not “open” — signed by a previous owner but never transferred into the seller’s name.
- If a lienholder is listed, get proof the loan is paid off before you pay, and confirm lien status with your state’s DMV.
- The odometer reading on the title and service records is consistent with the dash.
- Ask your state’s DMV what is required to transfer ownership, and get a bill of sale.
What you cannot check yourself
- Stored OBD-II trouble codes on 1996 and newer vehicles, at every tier.
- Battery condition, brake pad and rotor thickness, and A/C and heater temperatures, as measurements (Silver and Gold).
- Paint thickness on every panel, which shows repainted or filled bodywork, and live OBD-II data on the road test (Gold).
- A photo-documented report delivered to you, to negotiate with.
A vetted inspector comes to the car, and a photo-documented report reaches you within 24–48 hours of the visit. Flat rates from $249. Card saved at booking, charged only after the inspection is completed.
Common questions
- What should I check first when buying a used car?
- The paperwork. Confirm who holds the title, that the VIN on the title matches the dash and the door-jamb label, and that there is no unpaid loan or salvage, rebuilt, or flood brand. Check it before anything else, and confirm lien status with your state’s DMV.
- Can I check a used car myself without a professional inspection?
- You can catch a lot: title and VIN problems, uneven paint and panel gaps, flood signs, worn pedals that do not match the odometer, and how the car starts, drives, and brakes. What a self-check cannot do is read stored fault codes, measure battery and brake condition, or measure paint thickness. Those are the gaps an independent inspection fills.
- How long should a test drive be?
- Long enough to cover a cold start, city streets, and highway speed, if the seller allows it. Listen for noises over bumps and in tight turns, feel for pulling or vibration, and check the brakes and shifting. Look for new leaks under the car when you park.
- Is the checklist free, and what do you do with my email?
- Yes, the checklist is free. We use your address to send it and, only if you tick the optional box, occasional used-car buying tips from Vehicle Inspectors. Every email has an unsubscribe link.
- What does an independent inspection add beyond the checklist?
- An inspector reads stored OBD-II trouble codes from the car (1996 and newer), measures battery condition, brake pads and rotors, and A/C temperatures on Silver and Gold, and takes paint-depth readings on every panel on Gold, with everything documented in a photo report delivered to you. Flat rates start at $249, and your card is charged only after the inspection is completed.
Want the full list an inspector works from? See the vehicle inspection checklist. Buying off Facebook Marketplace? Read what to check before you pay a private seller, or how a certified pre-owned inspection differs from an independent one.